Nice walk today. The time goes differently and the walking doesn't seem at all as hard. Got to Carrion. Went to stay with the nuns. Woke up with bites yesterday, not sure whether it was mozzies or chinches (bed bugs...ew) but we had to go through the rigmarole of putting every stitch of clothing into the washing machine, going down to the super for black bags and bug spray, putting the boots in one, the backpack in another and my clothes, after they had dried, in a third; spraying the crap out of them all with the spray before leaving them all tied up and out in the sun. Dose. Had a sing song with the nuns and the rest of the people in the hostel and then we went to Mass. Had a blessing after. Priest spoke very good English except for, "You can come up one by one and I will put my hands IN your head" :) Priceless.
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Day 22: Astorga to Foncebadon
Beautiful walk today. Things are starting to get green again. I think the legs are on autopilot now at this stage. We had today's stage done in no time. So we decided to go up the hill a little further. So we are staying in a tiny village up a mountain. Views are amazing. Tomorrow is Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino. Traditionally, people carry stones from the place where they start and leave them here. Maura has a couple. We should get there at sunrise tomorrow which should be nice. Quite cold up here. Sat out for a while to see if I could get rid of my Camino tan and now I have a white handprint on my red back where I tried to put on suncream :) ah well, at least I saved the part where the straps will be sitting!
Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Day 14: Burgos to Hontanas
Left hostel early. Most of the morning with sonia talking about why we are here and what the camino is or what it can give us. Or what doing a pilgrimage does for us. What is the act of pilgrimage. Stopped after first 10km for breakfast. Met an actual shepherd! Entered the Meseta. Lots of fields, nothing around for miles. Stopped again for picnic at the 20k mark. Met a guy from Cordoba who was averaging 60k a day. Talked to him with sonia for most of the way in. Hontanas is lovely little village that just appeared out of nowhere. Went into one hostel but left. Other hostel was a million times better. Went for food. 30k is a lot. Tired feet. Went for a siesta. Woke up feeling way worse :) mapped out our route and days. In bed. It's 8.30 p.m.
Day 13: Agés to Burgos
Started off well- had a nice little climb up to this cross and then there was a bit of a flat plain that looked like Africa. The view down into the valley was spectacular. Stopped for breakfast a while later. Walk into Burgos was long and through a big industrial estate. Arrived again at municipal hostel. Very purpose built and not a whole lot of character. Burgos cathedral (de Santa Maria) is beautiful. Really spectacular.
Day 12: Belorado to Agés
Stopped in Tosantos for breakfast. No bar but the hospitaleros gave us coffee and bread. Sonia had stayed there before. A guy called Juan Luis Anton was running it. Lovely atmosphere there. Very peaceful. Very slow morning. Stopped a lot but it was good. Walked with the English son, mother and daughter. The mother is 65... Unreal. Lots of forest. Passed through San Juan de Ortega - literally means St. John of the Nettle. There was just a monastery there. Went onto Ages. Lovely little town. Pizza. El tocador. Dinner. Met the Americans. Pint outside. 92 year old woman came over to talk to us. Two Africans appeared in the bar. Bed.
Day 11: Santa Domingo to Belorado
Santa domingo to belorado
"Llora como una mujer que no spite defender como un hombre."
We were walking with the guy from Madrid again. History lesson about the Moors in Spain. Singing Irish songs. Long stretch by the road. Stayed at a place with a pool. So had lovely evening lazying about sunbathing and swimming. Had dinner with the two and Daniela from Ecuador.
Day 10: Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Najera to santo domingo
Walked with Sonia for the morning. Lovely sunrise over the mountains. We are most definitely in La Rioja. There are fields and fields of grape vines everywhere. Coffee break was at a little village and then it was maura and myself again. Passed a good 10k. Found Sonia again. Got the Catalan point of view on the Basque situation. Arrived in Santo Domino. He was apparently responsible for building and maintaining a lot of the Camino paths. Went for food. Supermarket. Sun bathing. An Italian we met in the last place had carried a bottle of stuff that we had tried to throw away all the way from Najera. Very funny.Cooked dinner. Found best chocolate ever- Dulce de leche stuff. Bed.
